Words by Yuri Hauswald
Photos by Will Freihofer
This one time, at The Cyclist's Menu gravel camp, I touched the border at an old ghost town and pedaled remote gravel roads that Pancho Villa used when he came up from Mexico to steal cattle from the original San Rafael Cattle Company.
While we did see plenty of Border Patrol agents patrolling the vast desert expanse, there were no outlaws, unless, of course, you include our gang of gravel campers on their carbon, steel, and titanium steeds thundering across the vast network of borderland roads.
Patagonia, Arizona
Patagonia, Arizona, which sits at 4,044 feet, was originally a mining town and supply center for the region in the 1890s. It is also one of three towns left in Arizona with an active Marshal's Department.
Located 60 miles southeast of Tucson, the town is part of one of Arizona's unique Sky Island ranges and lies near the intersection of the Rocky Mountains, Sierra Madre, Sonoran Desert, Chihuahuan Desert, Great Plains, and Neotropics.
Today there's a unique mixture of cattle ranching and Wild West history alongside a growing community of artists, miners, birders, and gravel cyclists.
"One of my favorite aspects of Patagonia is the community's connection to the landscape here. Whether someone ventures out into the woods or mountains or not, the energy and beauty that is expressed through the natural wonders is immense. It's overwhelming at times. It is this effect that is felt while riding, while simply being here. You leave a more centered human."
- Zander Ault
Riding Through the San Rafael Valley
At roughly 90,000 acres, made up of both private and public lands, it's easy to feel small and insignificant in the San Rafael Valley, a rare expanse of wide-open land sitting near or above 5,000 feet.
There's a stillness and silence that is soul-centering, yet this parched high-desert landscape is teeming with vibrant life.
The region is home to a diverse range of flora and fauna, including hundreds of species of birds, native bees, butterflies, moths, and numerous threatened or sensitive species.
Ever heard of a coati? I hadn't either until we saw a band of about twenty dart across Harshaw Road. Imagine a very slender raccoon with a long snout.
While rare and elusive, jaguars, mountain lions, and ocelots have also been spotted in the region, using the mountains as migration corridors between Mexico and the United States.
Cattle ranching, still very much a part of this community, has been one of the predominant activities in the area for generations. The stewardship of these lands has played an important role in shaping the landscape riders experience today.
Meet The Cyclist's Menu
Who are The Cyclist's Menu? It's the dynamic duo of Heidi and Zander Ault, two passionate hard-chargers committed to giving their guests the best gravel camp experience possible.
I actually met Heidi first when she raced mountain bikes professionally, and we developed a friendship from there.
Chef Z doesn't mess around when it comes to the food served at camp.
"The Cyclist's Menu sources directly to support local food sheds in each destination they travel to. This creates community, strengthens that local food economy, and helps reinforce the importance of coordinating your regular purchasing from a much smaller radius. These are the types of bonds we create to instill a special connection to place within our clients' lives."
- Zander Ault
Speaking of connections, Zander was also selected to serve on the Resource Advisory Council for the Coronado National Forest.
In addition, both The Cyclist's Menu and the Spirit World 100 actively fundraise on behalf of the Borderlands Restoration Network, a regional nonprofit working to reconnect people with the natural landscape through ecosystem restoration and management.
A Growing Gravel Destination
Patagonia is one of three gateway communities with access to the 700-mile Arizona Trail, which means the town sees its fair share of thru-hikers and mountain bikers tackling this iconic and challenging route.
The town has long been a world-renowned destination for birders and hikers, but more recently, due in no small part to the efforts of The Cyclist's Menu, it has also seen a boom in gravel cycling and bikepacking.
The inaugural Spirit World 100, a gravel event created by Heidi and Zander, brought more than 130 racers to town to share in a special weekend of riding bikes through this unique landscape.
A Day at Gravel Camp
What's a day in the life of a Cyclist's Menu gravel camper look like?
It starts with some morning motivation roasted just up the road in Tucson by Presta Coffee Roasters, followed by Time Market artisan bread, almond butter, oatmeal, avocado, and eggs made to order.
Then comes the riding.
Over the four days, I rode with an ophthalmologist, a gym owner, a veterinarian scientist, a chiropractor, and a cancer research professional, to name just a few. Campers came from Massachusetts, California, Colorado, Washington, and beyond to make the pilgrimage to this far-flung corner of Arizona.
They came to push their limits, find stillness and solitude, expand their horizons, enjoy world-class gravel riding, and, of course, eat some really good food.
Ride Bikes. Eat Food.
Ride bikes, eat food. Eat food, ride bikes.
Any way you slice it, a week with The Cyclist's Menu in Patagonia, Arizona, is going to satisfy your hunger for big days on the bike and your craving for wholesome, locally sourced meals that leave you looking for seconds, or thirds in my case.
Camp concluded with tired legs, full hearts, and new friendships forged in the San Rafael Valley.
It ended with happy campers who had proven they could ride farther than they thought possible, while doing it in a uniquely stunning landscape that very few people get to experience.
Learn more about The Cyclist's Menu Arizona Gravel Camp:
ridebikeseatfood.com/arizona-gravel.html
